Biciklom po granicama Hrvatske u 21 dan

Aleksandar Lukić

Hrvatska

11. svibnja 2018.

l

UVOD

O jednom nesvakidašnjem putovanju biciklom.

Hrvatsko geografsko društvo pokrovitelj je nesvakidašnjeg avanturističkog pothvata u kojem će Toni Lugarov, Hrvoje Jakolić i Blaž Oštrek obići cijelu kopnenu granicu Hrvatske i odvoziti oko 2230 km.  Cilj projekta je promocija cikloturizma kao zdravog i ekološki održivog oblika turizma, te hrvatskih granica kao mjesta susreta i suživota. Pratite ovu avanturu na Geografija.hr!

Ispod crtica i fotografija iz dnevnika putovanja pročitajte uvodni intervju s Tonijem Lugarovom, idejnim začetnikom projekta.

Prvi tjedan putovanja

Putovanje biciklima po granicama Hrvatske započelo je u subotu, 12. svibnja u Savudriji, a potom se Bujštinom i Buzeštinom, prateći hrvatsko-slovensku granicu, nastavilo vrlo izazovnim planinskom dionicom Ćićarije i Učke.

Već drugog dana biciklisti su nakon voženje riječkim zaleđem i Gorskim kotarom stigli u Čabar, gdje su se družili s učenicima Osnovne škole “Petar Zrinski”, razgovarajući o biciklima, putovanjima, granicama (posebno hvala Martinu Kvaterniku, prof. geografije).

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D3-130km A lot riding, not so much time taking photos. The plan today was get off the mountain fast. Navigation was going ok, some roads where not where we expect, but got lucky and got to Čabar for nice breakfast and coffee. Had a stop at Plešće for our first school visit and we where greated exceptionally, more on that on next post. From there managed to squeeze to Brod na Kupi for lunch and then crossed to Slovenia to ride the most flat 20k we have ever seen. The feal of tarmac got us to u small house and we are now on plan with our advanture. . . . . @garmin_hr @croatia.airlines @konabikes #touraroundcroatia #ricohgr #ricoh #garmin #croatiaairlines #bikepacking #theradavist #konadewplus #konasutra #biketour #biketouring #bikes #bicycles #apidura #alpkit #blackburndesign #ortlieb

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Put su nastavili uz Kupu sve do Žumberka, a potom se spustili u dolinu Save koju su prešli na skeli.

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D4-140km This little house porch gave us the best sleep so far, regardless of the very angry cat in 3am and rain that kept falling till 5am, we had to make some minor adjustments couse of the wind. Today's climb over Žumberak to Bregana was beautiful and tough for @hrcycles 'cose of some indigestion problems, but we managed to make it on time to cross river Sava by raft. The dog, i want that dog. One more tough day of riding with 140km, and the last push gave us the reward at the end. You'll see what soon. Good night i am dead. . . . . @garmin_hr @croatia.airlines @konabikes #touraroundcroatia #ricohgr #ricoh #garmin #croatiaairlines #bikepacking #theradavist #konadewplus #konasutra #biketour #biketouring #bikes #bicycles #apidura #alpkit #blackburndesign #ortlieb #zumberak #sava #river #raft

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Ruta je bicikliste vodila preko Kumrovca, Trakošćana i Varaždina prema najsjevernijoj točki Hrvatske u Sv. Martinu na Muri.

Drugi tjedan putovanja

Sv. Martin na Muri postao je značajno turističko odredište u Hrvatskoj, i to ne samo zbog sve poznatijih toplica. Na rijeci Muri uređen je za stari mlin, označene su biciklističke rute koje se dijelom uklapaju u projekt Eurovelo i čitav kraj nudi niz prilika za provođenje aktivnog odmora.

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D7-90km After a relaxing spa stay in Sv. Martin na Muri we headed to follow river Mura to the famous raft mill but we didn't expect a sandy wet muddy road, so we where not happy as you can see from the photo. So lesson learned and we head east, following river Mura to river Drava. We made sweet short stops, for coffee, ice-cream, and a long relaxing rest in Šoderica lake. The place was a ghost town but we didn't mind. Had a small power nap, relaxed and just let it all in. Later we headed to Gotalovo where my dear friend Ana made us feel right at home. Had a tasty dinner, vine, took a walk and now we are ready for tomorrow. . . . . @garmin_hr @croatia.airlines @konabikes #touraroundcroatia #ricohgr #ricoh #garmin #croatiaairlines #bikepacking #theradavist #konadewplus #konasutra #biketour #biketouring #bikes #bicycles #apidura #alpkit #blackburndesign #ortlieb #svmartinnamuri #gotalovo

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Nakon posjeta Muru je uskoro zamijenila Drava, a kraći nedjeljni odmor proveli su uz jezero i vikendaško naselje zanimljivog imena, Čingi-Lingi u općini Molve. Prateći tok Drave tok biciklisti su vozeći Podravinom uskoro stigli u Slavoniju, u Valpovo gdje su ih dočekali članovi odreda izviđača Iovallios.

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D8-106km After a wonderful breakfast and a bit late start, we headed to lake Čingi-Lingi ( look it up on a map) to meet our loved ones and just chill for a while. It was a lovely time, but we needed to get going. Made some progres, and decided to follow Eurovelo route which gave us some amazing straight roads trough beautiful forests. The Eurovelo routes have solar powered charging stations for phones and cameras, a wireless charger, water, bike repair station and a recycling area. So we managed to charge our equipment and continue on. Following the route came to Križnica to cook some lunch near river Drava and rest. The day ended in a fishing cabin, made some tea, and off to bed for a early morning start. . . . . @garmin_hr @croatia.airlines @konabikes #touraroundcroatia #ricohgr #ricoh #garmin #croatiaairlines #bikepacking #theradavist #konadewplus #konasutra #biketour #biketouring #bikes #bicycles #apidura #alpkit #blackburndesign #ortlieb #svmartinnamuri #gotalovo

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Sljedeće odredište bila je Baranja, tipična prekogranična regija čiji se veći dio nalazi u susjednoj Mađarskoj i koja je bicikliste oduševila Kopačkim ritom (i prekrasnim sunčanim vremenom).

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D10-120km After a good sleep and a great rest, we had an easy day planned. Straight roads, endless fealds of green, yellow and beautiful blue sky. The smells where hipnotising, hunny, grass, bees wax all in one. And wind, a lot of wind. What we thought will be a 80km turned up to be 120km ride, with more than 40km of gravel. On the way through northen part od Eastern Croatia and Kopački rit, the wildlife is still incredible. Families of boars ran away from us constantly, birds, insects…nature. Beautiful day. In the end we ended our day in Osijek at my friends house. Tomorrow we head to the eastern part Ilok and our third check point. Good night. . . . @garmin_hr @croatia.airlines @konabikes @ppkopackirit #touraroundcroatia #ricohgr #ricoh #garmin #croatiaairlines #bikepacking #theradavist #konadewplus #konasutra #biketour #biketouring #bikes #bicycles #apidura #alpkit #blackburndesign #ortlieb #kopackirit #osijek #ppkopackirit

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Nakon Osijeka, Dunav zamjenjuje Dravu, a u Vukovaru Toni, Hrvoje i Blaž susreću Japanca koji već sedam godina putuje svijetom vozeći bicikl. Preko Iloka, najistočnije točke Hrvatske, put ih je dalje vodio preko Vinkovaca do Slavonskog Broda i nove suputnice idućih nekoliko dana – rijeke Save.

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D11-146km Day started early from Osijek. The idea was to go to Ilok the most Eastern part of Croatia, and from there try to reduce the gap to Slavonsko Brod for tomorrow. During our first rest stop in Vukovar we met a Japanese man who is traveling by bike for 7years now and has walked 2 years before he got a bike from a Chinese girl. The FB is in the picture so if would like give him a hello :). After buying him a drink and giving him some food, we headed to Ilok. The weather was brutal, 34°C, 12 o'clock sun. From Vukovar to Ilok you have to go through towns with 8% climbs. There we reasted for some time, and decided to start our way to Sl.Brod. What we expected to be a 80km day ended to be a sprint to Vinkovci in the rain with 146km. So tomorrow we have some extra time to Sl.Brod. Good night 🙂 . . . @garmin_hr @croatia.airlines @konabikes @ppkopackirit #touraroundcroatia #ricohgr #ricoh #garmin #croatiaairlines #bikepacking #theradavist #konadewplus #konasutra #biketour #biketouring #bikes #bicycles #apidura #alpkit #blackburndesign #ortlieb #osijek #ilok #vinkovci #sprint #timetrial

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U Hrvatskoj Kostajnici biciklisti su posjetili SŠ Ivana Trnskoga gdje je posjet organizirala profesorica geografije Lana Deraković-Rakas. S učenicima 2. razreda smjera šumarski tehničar te 3. razreda gimnazije razgovarali su o suživotu stanovnika u pograničnom području. Učenike su posebno zanimali o tome kako je živjeti na biciklu tijekom ovako dugih vožnji. Hrvatska Kostajnica bila je svakako dobro odredište za ovakav posjet i zbog činjenice da njeni stanovnici aktivno rade na razvoju cikloturizma i organiziraju nekoliko biciklističkih manifestacije svake godine.

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D14-156km Morning started a bit sad as @dropoutpropaganda left us 15min before we began our days ride. Morning was foggy, humid and sticky but hot all the way to Jasenovac where we had our first rest. Today we had our second school to visit in Hrvatska Kostajnica where we were greated by the school staff and geography teacher Lana and mix of students. We talked about the border line and their perception of it, and found out how they live on cohesion with. A nice group of students and school staff, thank you for your hospitality and time. After that we headed to Dvor for our second rest, at that time the sun started to hit is, it was noon, so we took some time and chilled for a while. To Dvor the roads where incredible, almost straight, beautiful views, but no shade. Aftee Dvor we headed to Glina, clouds decided to hide the sun, the climb took hour, hour and a half and where rewarded with a 30km downhill all the way to Glina. Where we had lunch and prepaird for the last leg to Topusko. Beautiful ride, must do it with a road bike and no badge. Beautiful. Tomorrow we head to Korenica, if someone has someone for accommodation there, help would be greatly appreciated. Good night, i am dead. . . . @garmin_hr @croatia.airlines @konabikes @ppkopackirit #touraroundcroatia #ricohgr #ricoh #garmin #croatiaairlines #bikepacking #theradavist #konadewplus #konasutra #biketour #biketouring #bikes #bicycles #apidura #alpkit #blackburndesign #ortlieb #novska #hrvatskakostajnica #dvor #glina #topusko

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Treći tjedan putovanja

Zadnji tjedan avanture biciklom po granicama Hrvatske započeo je vožnjom Kroz Banovinu i Kordun, a završio u Lici, u Korenici. Reljefna uzvišenja ovog prijelaznog prostora između Središnje i Gorske Hrvatske nisu iznenadila bicikliste, ali nakon višednevnog putovanja uz Savu ipak su predstavljala novi izazov.

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D15-106km What a day. Standard early start in fog, humidity was high and we had some 50km planed to Slunj then another 50 to Korenica. The first 10km went by fast, really fast, we decided to take the drafting advantage of a passing tractor and we where flying… until tractor went over some shit on the road that went flying on me and my bike. Beautiful start of the day. We had @__lugarov and @_tn3845 visiting us, we met at Cetingrad and fotoshooting begain. That is the main reason i decided not to photograph. The road to Slunj was a refreshing sight after straight roads in Slavonija, but the climbs where challenging. Awerage speed had reduced, bit we managed to get to Slunj in a reasonable time. There we rested and had time to buy some memory cards for our phones 🙂 Took some photos and @hrcycles and me where off to Korenica leaving @_lugarov and @_tn3845 . The road from there is in one word, scary. Cars and trucks flying, and we just focused on the white line on the side of the road and started our climb to Plitvička Jezera. Took a much needed lunch break in Grabovac, chilled there for a while. The sun was behind the cloud all day and that made it all so much easier. Called up a friend that works in Korenica hospital and managed to get us some nice free room to sleep ower. We are deeply grateful. Took a walk, had dinner, met a horse and we are in bed resting for tomorrow's leg to Knin. Good night 🙂 . . . @garmin_hr @croatia.airlines @konabikes @ppkopackirit #touraroundcroatia #ricohgr #ricoh #garmin #croatiaairlines #bikepacking #theradavist #konadewplus #konasutra #biketour #biketouring #bikes #bicycles #apidura #alpkit #blackburndesign #ortlieb #novska #hrvatskakostajnica #dvor #glina #topusko

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Put od Korenice preko Gračaca do Knina oduševio je bicikliste prekrasnim otvorenim vizurama na polja u kršu, kanjon Zrmanje i slapove NP Krka.

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D16-122km Hospital bed in the morning, what a way to start the day, right? Well there was fog, and low temperature, high humidity… But what has the day got for us today 🙂 two small uphills and then down down downhill, it was incredible. First 50km stopped in Gračac for lunch and refreshments, then decided to give it a try during midday to Knin. Weather had a soft heart for us, wind in the back, cloud cover, can you ask for more? River Zrmanja, Dinara, roads that cyclists invented. A good friend has a place in National Park Krka, so we got to stay there for a nice rest and got to take @hrcycle to the waterfall for some awesome sights. Tomorrow we go to Sinj. Good night, out knees hurt. . . . @garmin_hr @croatia.airlines @konabikes @ppkopackirit #touraroundcroatia #ricohgr #ricoh #garmin #croatiaairlines #bikepacking #theradavist #konadewplus #konasutra #biketour #biketouring #bikes #bicycles #apidura #alpkit #blackburndesign #ortlieb #knin #npkrka #radocaj #krka

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Vozeći dalmatinskim zaleđem, od Knina prema Sinju, Toni i Hrvoje s uživanjem su gledali Dinaru (sretni što ne moraju uspeti se i na nju) i jurili obalom Peručkog jezera, prije nego su dan završili na obali, u Baškoj Vodi. Prvo ovogodišnje kupanje u moru!

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D17-148km Yesterday before bed @hrcycles and I had a great plan on paper and today we found out it was a perfect plan 🙂 ! Decided to start early for our first ride of the day to Sinj. It was a ~60km ride, with a 15km uphill that had questiond our choice of roads, the sky was clear and sun just loved us. The road had started to fool me, i lost the perception of uphill and downhill, my brain is telling me it is downhill but my legs feel it is uphill, you want to just roll but you need to pedal, mind games. After that short 15km uphill we started to get rewarded, first the magnificent Dinara ( i remembered climbing it a couple of years ago with a friend ), then Peruča lake, a huuuge strech of road surrounding it, photos do not do it justice. We took ~20km breaks for energy drinks, ice-cream and beer. At around 13 we where in Sinj, had lunch and beer, and rested, had a nap for a couple of hours in the school yard, then it started raining a little, we took of for some coffee and beer and had some time to rest. Then the real rain came down, the black sky, thunder, but we didn't mind. At around 18 we said it is time for our second leg a~60km to Baška voda. Our plan had gone perfectly so far, the sun was setting down, rain cooled down everything and we where flying ~30km/h, the road just kept on giving, we where smiling and we could not believe it. Found some incredible 13% downhill roads, straight with some incredible views, sun was setting, breath taking. A couple of uphills and down we went again, zooming. We had planed to be in Baška voda by midnight or 1 in the morning but managed to come by 21 o'clock. The smiles on our faces are still on. What a ride. It is in top 5 rides so far. Just wow. Good night we are dead beat. . . . @garmin_hr @croatia.airlines @konabikes @ppkopackirit #touraroundcroatia #ricohgr #ricoh #garmin #croatiaairlines #bikepacking #theradavist #konadewplus #konasutra #biketour #biketouring #bikes #bicycles #apidura #alpkit #blackburndesign #ortlieb #knin #npkrka #sinj #dinara #cetina #baskavoda #jadran #adriatic #sea #summer

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Jadransko magistralom, uz uspon kod delte Neretve koji ih je nagradio ptičjom perspektivom nad najplodnijom poljoprivrednom zonom Južne Dalmacije, put su nastavili do Dubrovnika.

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D19-106km After a good night sleep and a magnificent scenery to wake up we started our trip to Dubrovnik. First 10km was a peaceful and cool ride near Neretva delta, with a nice long uphill that gave us a clear overview of the whole delta, truly a sight to remember. The clouds where coveeing the whole sky so @hrcycles and I managed to make a big push before the heat. My legs where felling great, while hrcycles had some problems in the morning but whem we got the groove on we where unstoppable. Untill the sun decided to give us a look. At 70km we stopped in Trsteno for lunch and beer, and decided to rest underneath the HUGE tree until a bus of children made us go sooner. The sun was hot, but a final push to Dubrovnik gave us a much wanted reward. Friends of @varionica_brewery , @dbcdubrovnikbeercompany gave us a warm welcome with some beer and a handful of talk, than you guys, beer was much needed. Tomorrow we finish this adventure with a trip to Prevlaka and them @hrcycles and i are going to Montenegro for a nice rest, sleep and Njeguški pršut. Can't wait. Good night, we start at 5AM. . . . @garmin_hr @croatia.airlines @konabikes @ppkopackirit #touraroundcroatia #ricohgr #ricoh #garmin #croatiaairlines #bikepacking #theradavist #konadewplus #konasutra #biketour #biketouring #bikes #bicycles #apidura #alpkit #blackburndesign #ortlieb #jadran #adriatic #sea #summer #neretva #dubrovnik

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Avanturu, nakon gotovo puna tri tjedna vožnje Toni i Hrvoje su odlučili završiti vozeći Konavlima pa preko graničnog prijelaza Debeli Brijeg u Crnu Goru… Sretno su se zrakoplovom vratili u Zagreb 26. svibnja.

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D20-78km Last day of our tour around Croatia, honestly i am glad it is over. Had a good night sleep but started at 5AM, wanted to get as much of the distance before the sun came. We left all our unnecessary stuff in Dubrovnik for our flight on Saturday, took only toothbrush and swim shorts whit us and started our final day. Here in Croatia today was a holiday, so all the stores where closed which made our trip a bit different. Since we had no food with us we decided to skip the extra 30km ride to Prevlaka and just head straight to Montenegro for our well deserved rest. Had no problems crossing the border, and we where on our way to Tivat. This is @hrcycles first time in Montenegro and I think he likes it a lot. Rest of the day was filled with family, food drink, beach and a lot of laughs for our tan lines which I wear proudly knowing what we have done for the last 3 weeks. Thank you to all my friends that helped in any way i am glad to have you in my life. And a big thank you to my family for their support. This is it, tomorrow we rest and Saturday we fly to Zagreb and everything is back to normal. Thank you all, until the next adventure, good night. . . . @garmin_hr @croatia.airlines @konabikes @ppkopackirit #touraroundcroatia #ricohgr #ricoh #garmin #croatiaairlines #bikepacking #theradavist #konadewplus #konasutra #biketour #biketouring #bikes #bicycles #apidura #alpkit #blackburndesign #ortlieb #jadran #adriatic #sea #summer #dubrovnik #crnagora #montenegro #tivat

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Intervju s biciklistima prije početka projekta Biciklom po granicama Hrvatske

Toni, predstavite se ukratko našim čitateljima.

Moje ime je Toni Lugarov, imam 35 godina i strastveni sam biciklist amater s višegodišnjim iskustvom boravka i preživljavanja u prirodi. Preko 23 godine aktivan sam izviđač te predsjednik 28. Samostalne družine izviđača „Dubrava“ posljednjih 7 godina. Izviđački život me oblikovao u osobu koja voli i cijeni prirodu. Amaterski biciklizam kojim se bavim više od 10 godina omogućio mi je da spojim dvije strasti: putovanja i boravak u prirodi.

Otkud ideja za projekt Biciklom po granicama Hrvatske?

Kao dugogodišnjem i strastvenom biciklistu željnom avanture i upoznavanja nepoznatog, rodila mi se ideja da biciklom obiđem cijelu kontinentalnu granicu Republike Hrvatske. Želim potaknuti ljude na zdraviji život i upoznavanje ljepota naše zemlje, pomoći u promociji Hrvatske kao cikloturističke destinacije te ukazati da je usprkos trenutnim prijeporima, granica mjesto suživota, susreta i prijateljstva susjednih naroda.

Želim napraviti nešto što nitko nije napravio do sada u Hrvatskoj. Cilj mi je biciklom voziti što bliže cijelom kontinentalnom granicom Republike Hrvatske, spavajući u šatoru, noseći svu potrebnu opremu na biciklu. Time bih ostvario svoju želju, a pritom bih na inovativan i kreativan način promovirao Hrvatsku kao prekrasnu cikloturističku destinaciju.

Kako ste odredili trasu kojom ćete voziti?

Hrvatsku kontinentalnu granicu čine 4 krajnje točke, Bašanija-Savudrija (rt Lako) na zapadu, Sv. Martin na Muri na sjeveru, Ilok na istoku i Vitaljina-Prevlaka (rt Oštra) na jugu. Moja ruta je spojila te točke prateći granicu što je bliže moguće s početkom u Savudriji i krajem na Prevlaci. Ukupna dužina je ~2230 km s preko ~25000 m visinske razlike, a plan ju je odvoziti kroz tri tjedna, oko 100 km dnevno.

Rekli ste da projektom želite i promovirati Hrvatsku kao cikloturističku destinaciju. Kakvi su trendovi razvoja cikloturizma danas?

Smatram da projekt može imati i turističko značenje, posebno zato što je cikloturizam prepoznat kao važan rastući turistički proizvod Hrvatske. U Strategiji razvoja turizma Republike Hrvatske do 2020. godine te u Akcijskom planu razvoja cikloturizma navodi se da prema procjenama Svjetske turističke organizacije, u Europi trenutno postoji više od 60 milijuna aktivnih biciklista, 60% muškaraca i 40% žena, različitih dobnih skupina te da cikloturističko tržište Europske Unije uključujući Norvešku i Švicarsku svakodnevno raste.

Nadalje ističe se da Hrvatskom prolaze 4 EuroVelo pravca Europske mreže biciklističkih ruta, da je Hrvatska relativno dobro premrežena lokalnim i županijskim biciklističkim stazama, no da proizvod još uvijek nije adekvatno valoriziran ni komercijaliziran. Također, smatra se da Hrvatska još uvijek nije u dovoljnoj mjeri prepoznata kao važna europska cikloturistička destinacija, čemu dodatno doprinose i nedostatna ulaganja u promociju i razvoj turističkog proizvoda cikloturizma. No upravo su odobreni projekti za ozbiljniji razvoj ovog oblika turizma u nas i zato sam optimističan.

Drugi važan element Vaše avanture je granica. Zašto?

Uslijed brojnih otvorenih graničnih pitanja između Hrvatske i susjednih zemalja te neizvjesnosti i straha povezanih s međunarodnom migrantskom krizom, u javnosti se sve više stvara dojam o granici kao prostoru problema, sukoba i nesigurnosti. S druge strane, zbog svog specifičnog oblika Hrvatska, kao površinom mala zemlja u europskim okvirima, ima izuzetno dugu kopnenu granicu. I u europskim okvirima Hrvatska je prepoznata kao država s velikim udjelom pograničnih područja. Iako su granice i u povijesti bile izvor sukoba, one su i živi svjedok stoljetnog suživota, susreta i prijateljstva sa susjednim narodima. Zbog toga sam odabrao voziti svoju biciklističku turu Hrvatskom prateći te nijeme svjedoke naše povijesti i podsjetiti nas da granice usprkos trenutnim problemima trebaju spajati, a ne razdvajati susjede i prijatelje.

Posjetit ćete i osnovne škole tijekom putovanja?

Pokrovitelj mog projekta je Hrvatsko geografsko društvo (HGD) u suradnji s kojim ću tijekom vožnje posjetiti nekoliko osnovnih škola u pograničnim naseljima i s nastavnicima geografije i učenicima razgovarati o životu uz granicu koja je njihova svakodnevica te promovirati zdrav način života, biciklizam i cikloturizam. Hrvatsko geografsko društvo cijeli će projekt pratiti putem svog internetskog portala te društvenih mreža. Puno hvala na podršci i pratite nas!

Toni, Hrvoje i Blaž – sretno!

Razgovor vodio: Aleksandar Lukić

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